Roof coating is a liquid-applied membrane that bonds to a prepared substrate and cures into a waterproof layer. Silicone coating handles ponding water and stays flexible through the seasons, while acrylic coating breathes better over shingle and metal.
Every job starts with a roof condition survey. We scrape failing material, replace wet underlayment or sheathing, prime bare spots, and reinforce seams with fabric before the finish coat. Coverage rate and cure time decide how many passes we schedule.
Cost tracks square footage, roof pitch, and how much prep the surface needs. A reflective coating runs a fraction of a full roof replacement, and it buys real time on a rooftop that is still structurally sound.
On site you will see a ladder at the eave, a safety harness anchored at the ridge, and a scaffold on steep sections.
A pry bar and roofing shovel strip the failed material, while a roofing square, nail gun, and air compressor handle layout and fastener work.
Coating is the wrong product over active rot, a sagging roof deck, or granule loss that has worn through the mat. If the structure moves underfoot, we say so and quote a replacement instead.
Before we quote a coating job, we look at:
- Roof pitch and drainage, because a low-slope section that holds water needs silicone coating rather than acrylic coating.
- Substrate condition, including bare asphalt, rusted metal panel, and any failed bitumen cap that has to be scraped flat.
- UV degradation across the field, which shows as chalking and granule loss long before it shows as a leak.
- Seam and flashing condition at every penetration, since that is where water wicks in first.
- Blistering and soft spots that tell us whether the insulation below has taken on moisture.
- Ventilation, soffit vents, and attic fan performance, because a hot deck shortens coating life.
- The vapor barrier under a low-slope deck, since trapped moisture will peel a coating right off.
- The roof deck itself, whether plywood, OSB, or plank sheathing, checked for rot, decay, and sag.
- Existing roofing felt and tar paper layers, which have to be feathered flat to avoid a lumpy finish.
- Building code requirements for the roof assembly, including any permit the county wants on file.
What's Included
A roof condition survey with moisture readings, deck soundings, and photos of every valley, ridge, and flashing detail.
Repair of blisters, splits, and open seams using roof cement and reinforcing fabric before any coating goes down.
Primer application on rusted metal panel, chalky asphalt, and any substrate that will not accept adhesion.
A base coat and finish coat of elastomeric coating, sprayed or rolled to the manufacturer's stated coverage rate.
Fresh sealant and caulk at pipe flashing, chimney flashing, counter-flashing, and step flashing details.
Corroded nail, fastener, and screw replacement, plus any loose ridge cap, drip edge, or rake trim we find.
A written roof estimate with line items, so you can weigh coating against replacement with real numbers.
Signs You Need Roof Coating
Chalky gray residue that rubs off on your hand after a dry summer, which is granule loss and UV degradation at work.
Water ponding on a flat rooftop more than two days after rain, which stresses seams and speeds membrane decay.
Blisters or soft spots that give under a thumb, a sign moisture has reached the insulation below.
Rust streaks or peeling paint along the roofline, where water has begun to wick under the surface.
Ceiling stains that come back after a patch, which means the leak path is wider than the patch covered.
Dried, cracked caulk around a chimney, skylight, or vent boot, where the seal has simply aged out.
Our Roof Coating Process
First we walk the roof for a roof inspection: moisture readings, deck movement, flashing condition, and a look at the attic side of the sheathing.
Next we mend what fails first. Cut out rot and decay, reset loose fasteners, replace damaged underlayment or synthetic underlayment, and secure a loose drip edge.
Then we clean and prime. Scrape flaking material, blow debris into a dumpster on the ground, and apply primer systems matched to the substrate.
After that we detail the penetrations: sealant at pipe boots and vent boots, plus mastic and fabric at the chimney and skylight curbs.
Then the coating goes on in passes. Base coat, then a finish coat at the rated coverage rate, with cure time between each one.
Finally we run a second roof inspection, flush the gutter and downspout, and hand you photos of the finished rooftop.